Metalworks, helm impeder and other small jobs
I felt frivolous and decided to make copper toggles for deck hatches. I use a 5mm thick plate to cut my blanks.
It will be teardrop shape so that only one position will free the hatch. I will walk on these and most probably they will rotate under my feet so I want to minimize probability that I will unintentionally open the hatch without noticing it.
A bit of elbow grease and eight toggles are ready for service.
In situ.
It is the second day of spring temperatures. It peaks with 20 degrees C but still drops to zero at night. Since we had a red letter day today I started with epoxy work: building a galley box.
That started a bit troublesome since my epoxy base crystallized during winter and micro-pumps got stalled. A few hours in 50 degrees C brought all back to liquid.
With epoxy process back on track I tackled re-drilling rudder’s lower gudgeon (oversize drill & epoxy fill for thru bolts instead of screws).
I want to make sure that water will not penetrate transom assembly if it seeps into screw holes. Instead of relying on screws and Ettan waterproofing I drill oversized holes which will be filled with epoxy. Once it cures I will drill new holes for thru bolts. Even if water seeps into threads it will be surrounded by epoxy, not wood.
That’s a bit “belt & suspenders” approach but it costs nothing to be on the safe side. I would not bother on traditional wooden construction but plywood-epoxy hull must be protected from water ingress at all cost.
Once holes are filled with thickened epoxy (mayonnaise consistency so that it flows down the hole) I tape them with transparent tape, to monitor if there are no trapped air bubbles.
Both sides are properly filled, I leave it for a few days to cure.
I stepped the mast, to check clearance to main anchor. Lot’s of space.
Essential for solo sailing, in my experience, is some kind of autopilot or helm impeder.
I don’t have electricity on my Louve so simple helm impeder is my choice.
Roger Barns describes it in his book. There are also many web pages with different variants of it: here or here. My implementation is even more simplified as I will use main sheet cleats to hold the friction-line.
Started with parceling a rubber cord.
Mounted on the boat.
It is just a 3-strand line which goes thru a small eye under the tiller. To increase friction - hence lock the tiller - one draws a rubber cord which tightens the line.
I used an old sail hook so that I can detach the impeder if I remove the tiller. With tiller removed the rubber cord is held in place neatly.
Works like a charm.
As a last activity I bent the sail on the yard. Only now, when I look on this photo I see that I made a mistake.
Does anyone see what is wrong on this picture?